2009-2014 Challenger 5.7L Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-Back Exhaust Sound Clip & Review


Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. And today, we’re taking a closer look at,
listening to, and of course, installing the Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-Back Exhaust, fitting
all ’09 to ’14 5.7 Hemi Challengers. Now as you just heard from our sound clips,
and as I’m sure you’re aware, the Flowmaster Outlaw is one of the loudest options in the
category through and through, which is why of course I’m giving it five out of five on
our loudness meter. Now the Outlaw cat-back from Flowmaster is
what is essentially a straight-pipe exhaust. It does have two bullet-style mufflers but
not a ton of baffling inside so you can expect loud noises inside and outside the cabin. So if that’s what you’re looking for, the
Outlaw is a great option for you. Now there is gonna be drone inside the cabin,
which is worth mentioning especially at highway speeds and from light to light, you’ll hear
some of that noise inside as well. The cat-back here is a 3-inch mandrel-bent,
409-stainless steel, putting it at the middle-of-the-road as far as construction or as far as quality
of materials goes. Now if you’re located in wintery weather areas
and you want some of the more premium exhaust materials like 304-stainless, there are some
other options out there with the same kind of loudness such as the Corsa Xtreme, for
example, or the Borla Atak. If you’re looking to cut costs, spend around
900 bucks, this is gonna be the way to go. The mufflers do have a black coating on them
to help with a little bit more durability and the exhaust tips here are a polished full
stainless steel which I think looked pretty good, definitely a lot better than factory. Now the install here, I’m gonna give two out
of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. There is no cutting required, no drilling,
no modifications bolts right up to the factory locations. And considering the mufflers are not here,
but instead, they’re in the middle of the exhaust, the installation of your tailpipe
here is gonna be a lot easier. As you know, the factory exhaust mufflers
tuck up into the bumper, so not the case here. Like I said, essentially a straight pipe. Now I’m gonna walk you through every step
of the process, it’ll take about two hours. Let’s get started. All right, tools using this install include
an impact gun or a ratchet extension, 13 and 15-millimeter deep sockets, I also recommend,
but it’s not required, a 13-millimeter swivel socket, hanger removal tool and WD-40 or something
similar. The first step here, I’m gonna grab my impact
gun and extension and a 13-millimeter socket and I’m actually gonna remove the hanger isolators
directly from the frame unbolting them from the vehicle rather than using a removal tool
and popping the isolators out. So we’re gonna keep them all in one piece
attached to the exhaust and just remove them from the frame. So go straight above the muffler, there’s
one behind it and one in front of it by the tips. Now when you do the second one, you want to
make sure you have a hand on the muffler because it’s gonna want to drop down a little. All right, now we can do the same thing on
the other side. So now you can grab a hanger removal tool
and head back toward the middle section of your exhaust here. Now on the driver’s side, you have this flex
tube, directly above that there’s a hanger into the isolator, I’m actually gonna pop
this guy out. The same thing on the other side. Now as you’re doing this, before you finish
up removing the exhaust, it’s a good idea to have a pole jack in place or a Jack stand
or something similar, maybe even a hydraulic jack just to support the middle weight of
the exhaust as you remove it. Now if you have a helping hand during these
final stages of unclamping it from the front of the vehicle, that goes a long way, so I’m
gonna grab a buddy to hold the tips while I remove the front and we can drop it all
in one piece. Now you can grab your 15-millimeter deep socket
and loosen up the two clamps, holding them to your cat pipes. At this point, grab a helping hand and drop
your exhaust. So we’ve got our factory exhaust off of our
5.7 RT Challenger, it’s next to our Flowmaster Outlaw and I want to take you through some
similarities and differences between the two kits and I want to start up front. Now your factory exhaust has an H-pipe as
a mid-pipe which has that crossover section making it that H shape which can act as a
restrictor for airflow and it can slow down the airflow resulting in a little less power
than you’d like to get out of it. Swapping over to an X-pipe like the one included
in Flowmaster’s kit here you get a raspier louder sound with a slightly more aggressive
tone, but you also get a more free-flowing exhaust flow which can result in a small bump
in power. Moving on, you’ll see the entire kit is a
3-inch four 409 stainless steel mandrel-bent to make sure it’s kink-free and air restriction
free. So that 3-inch is gonna be slightly larger
than your factory option there and 409 is gonna be the middle-of-the-way option as far
as quality of materials. If you’re located in a wintery weather area,
seeing a little bit of road salt, 409 is gonna be a way better option than an aluminized. Now the mufflers here are the bullet-style
Flowmaster outlaw mufflers and these guys are essentially a straight pipe. There’s not a whole lot of baffling in there
if any at all, so that’s gonna produce that loud aggressive note that you heard earlier
in our sound clip. It’s also gonna result in some drone which
is worth noting. There are no resonators in this kit like there
are with the factory exhaust. So all that combined you get loud, he gets
some interior cabin noise, especially at highway speeds. So if you like that, this is a great option
for you. Now the mufflers have a black paint coating
on top which is gonna help add some durability to its corrosion and rust resistance beefing
up the 409 to make it a little bit better. Now moving on, you’ll see again essentially
a straight pipe going back to the tips. Now the tips aren’t deviating too much from
the factory option, they’re about three by seven, rectangular tips. They are slash-cut, double-walled, so they
are a little bit thicker. They are also much more polished. The factory tips are, you know, looking a
little worse for wear, they’re not the most attractive tips in the world. So this has Flowmaster’s name embedded on
top and a polished stainless steel tip. So those are a little bit more attractive
while keeping the OEM styling. Now what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna start
with the install up front here at our new mid-pipe and we’ll work our way back. First step here is to grab your mid-pipe. Now you’ll see it, the mid-pipe outlet there
is one curved pipe in one straight pipe, the curved pipe is gonna go on your passenger
side. Now on your inlet connecting to the cat-pipes,
you want to make sure you have two of the smaller clamps included in the kit. There are only two small ones so you’ll know
which ones I’m talking about, now we can throw this guy up in a position. Now you might need to finesse the cat pipes
a little bit to get this guy to slide on. But once you do, slide it all the way back
and we’ll tighten it down. Grab your 15 socket and tighten these down. Next to our mufflers. Now I’m gonna start with our passenger side
muffler and they are side specific, so you want to make sure you’re taking a look at
the diagram in the instructions so you can see which way the pipes are supposed to angle. Now on each of the mufflers you’ll see a sticker
that says inlet. I like to leave that on until it’s on-car. It will burn off eventually, we don’t have
to really worry about it. The inlet side obviously is gonna go into
the mid-pipe outlet, so that’s gonna connect here. You also want to make sure the sticker is
facing down. That’s how you know it’s got the proper orientation. Put a clamp over the end here, we’re gonna
slide this guy on and tighten it down. Grab your driver’s side muffler and do the
exact same thing. Make sure the inlet sticker is facing down
and connecting to the mid-pipe with a clamp on it before you slide it on. All right, so now what we’re gonna do is take
our factory hanger isolators that we removed from the frame and pop them off with the factory
exhaust, which is pretty simple. We’re just gonna slide this guy onto our new
hanger. Now the reason we’re doing this off-car is
because each of these hangers are facing a different direction which is gonna make it
harder to do on-car. So we’ve got this guy on, we just want to
make sure that this tab here is facing the front of the vehicle and you can take your
ground strap, I’m gonna swing this guy around and just strap her in. So now you can do the same thing to the front
one, just making sure that this tab is facing the front of the vehicle. Now we can lift the entire thing up and slide
this guy onto our passenger side muffler outlet. You want to make sure you’re seating that
all the way in, now you can lift this guy up and connect it to the isolator. Grab your 15 socket and tighten down that
clamp. All right, so now we can take the factory
13-millimeter bolts and put them up into the frame. Now for this guy, I’m gonna use a swivel socket
just because it’s at a weird angle and because we have the hanger in the way. Let’s just repeat that for the other side
starting with our hangers, making sure that the tabs are facing the front of the vehicle. Now upon testing our driver’s side tailpipe,
I realized that this muffler was angled in the wrong direction here a little close to
the driveshaft and the diff, so what we’re doing here is basically taking this and rotating
it toward the driver’s side so that the pipe comes away from the driveshaft to the outside
of it. So we’ve got to just like that, I’m gonna
tighten down this clamp again and then get to work on the tailpipe. All right, so now we’re just gonna do the
exact same thing, I’ve got my tailpipe here and I adjusted our muffler, so this will slide
right in. All right, so now we can hang up these factory
hangers. All right, so now let’s repeat that for the
front one. So now we can finish things up with our tips. Now the tips are slashed cut at an angle. The peak of the angle here you want on the
inside toward your license plate, so that’s what we have going on here. So I’m putting this on our passenger side. Perfect. Now we can tighten down this clamp. All right, now we can do the other side. At this point, you can make sure your tips
are exactly where you want them, align everything properly so it’s even on both sides. Go back and tighten down all of your clamps
and you’re good to go. That’s gonna wrap up my review and install
for the Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-Back, available for the ’09 to ’14 5.7 Hemi, you can get yours
right here at americanmuscle.com.

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